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He was a model to me of artistic labor and discipline, even if those early paintings were painfully amateurish. The painting followed me from Amherst to my first job in New York, and on to London and Delhi. IT WASN’T MY intention to start an essay about artistic beginnings with a story of artistic death. I’m especially moved by those first moments of validation by which an artist comes out to himself, as it were. It’s this, the inexorability of the correspondence between an artist and the world, that gives those first steps their magical quality.

Persons: Naipaul, Neil Shah, James Wood —, Zack, who’d, ”, Artemisia Gentileschi, Susanna, Elders ”, I’m, ” Gustave Flaubert, “, ” Zack, it’s, Bruce Chatwin, Paul Gauguin, Salman Rushdie, Somerset Maugham, Kathryn Bigelow, Philip Glass, Arundhati Roy, Booker, Joseph Conrad, Conrad, Jacques, ” Conrad, brimming, ’, ’ ”, Clarice Lispector, Benjamin Moser, ” Lispector, Maugham, eludes, Jan van Kessel, Elder, — Pieter Bruegel, —, Rebecca West —, “ Black Lamb, J.R, Hammond, Wells, Rebecca West ”, sloughed, Henrik Ibsen’s, Rosmersholm ”, Karan Mahajan, Salman Toor, what’s, ” Hemingway, Anoushka Shankar, Ravi Shankar, Harold Bloom, Ravi, Uday, René Daumal, Rasa ”, ” Anoushka, Norah Jones, Norah, I’ve, “ Raphael, Rachel Cusk, Italy ”, Perugino, Raphael, Cusk, J.M, Samuel Beckett, Gabriel García Márquez, Thomas Pynchon’s, James Joyce, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Marcel Proust’s, Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Read, Emma Kehlbeck, Quinton Kamara Organizations: Amherst College, Elders, Fayerweather, ”, Google, Sunday Times, Somerset, Yugoslavia, The, “, . Locations: Delhi, ”, Massachusetts, Italian, Topeka, Kan, Amherst, New York, London, Patagonia, New Delhi, Torrens, Cambridge, Polish, Ukrainian, Brazil, Flemish, Victorian England, “ H.G, Fairfield, United States, “, East, Lahore, Europe, America, Texas, Side, Manhattan, India, Italy

He was a model to me of artistic labor and discipline, even if those early paintings were painfully amateurish. IT WASN’T MY intention to start an essay about artistic beginnings with a story of artistic death. No one captured the massive cultural and economic disparities of my life in Delhi (and his in Lahore) like Toor. But quite unbeknown to me, Toor’s life in New York had opened up a new vein of material. Not everyone who sees a Michelangelo can go off and paint a Michelangelo.”THERE ARE SO many ways to begin.

How do we define furniture? The goal was to land on a wide range of offerings, but there were parameters: To qualify, each piece was required to have been fabricated, even if just as a prototype, within the past 100 years. Lighting was excluded from the debate — “which is nuts,” said de Cárdenas, a former men’s wear designer who started his firm in 2006 — unless it was attached to, say, a desk. (The Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass’s illuminated Ultrafragola mirror, which presaged selfie culture by decades, made the cut.) There were no limits placed on provenance, and a piece didn’t need to have been designed by a known name, or even attributable.

Persons: Rafael de Cárdenas, Daniel Romualdez, Modern Art’s, Paola Antonelli, Julianne Moore, Katie Stout, Tom Delavan —, Oki, ”, de Cárdenas, Ettore Sottsass’s, Antonelli, Charles, Ray Eames, Le Corbusier Organizations: New York Times, Museum, Modern Locations: Italian

As they drove up to the house on a winding dirt road lined with lambs and donkeys, Borromeo says, “we looked at each other and we were like, ‘Oh no, we’re in trouble.’” They were immediately charmed. “It was a project.” Even though the 50-year-old building needed work — it had been unoccupied for a decade — the couple knew they’d discovered something worth preserving. In 1973, following a trip to Tokyo, the Italian poet Gianni Malabarba and his wife, both influential art collectors, had hired a local landscape designer to construct a weekend home inspired by their time abroad. The result is an Italian dwelling in the Japanese vernacular that would make as much sense in Kyoto as it would in California. Although they added a fireplace in the living room and redivided the rooms, they were careful, as Ferri says, “to keep the spirit alive.” But, says Borromeo, “we changed basically everything.”

Persons: Borromeo, ’, ”, Ferri, they’d, Gianni Malabarba, “ Locations: Tokyo, Italian, Kyoto, California

☆ How Miuccia Prada Reinvented Fashion
▼ + stars: | 2023-10-19 | by ( Nick Haramis | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +111 min

A few seasons earlier, for Miu Miu’s spring 2022 collection, Prada delivered raw-edge chino micro-miniskirts belted below the hip bone. Firstview (8); courtesy of Prada PRADA STILL resides in the Milanese apartment where she and her two older siblings, Marina and Alberto, grew up. In 1993, her days of on-the-ground protest behind her — she’d long stopped handing out flyers at rallies — Prada and Bertelli created Milano Prada Arte, which later became the Fondazione Prada. Styled by Suzanne Koller FOR THE PAST few years, Miuccia Prada hasn’t had to do quite as much all by herself. © TriStar/Everett Collection Bening and Warren Beatty in “Bugsy.” Everett Collection Bening in “American Beauty” (1999).

Persons: Queen Latifah Annette Bening Henry Taylor Miuccia Prada, I’m, Queen Latifah, Henry Taylor, D’Angelo Lovell Williams, Miuccia Prada, Collier Schorr, Annette Bening, Katy Grannan, Delphine Danhier, Rob Talty, Sara Tagaloa, Rahim Fortune, Ian Bradley, Iasia Merriweather, Raisa, Prada, you’ve, YANAGIHARA, MIUCCIA PRADA, David Cronenberg, Jean, Luc Godard, Dara Birnbaum, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Mario Prada, Patrizio Bertelli, Miu Miu, Guy Marineau, Condé Nast, ”, “, Homer, “ Prada Marfa, Lauren Weisberger’s, Wears, Drake, Prada hasn’t, Carsten Höller, “ It’s, Suzanne Koller Prada, Suzanne Koller, Gerhard Richter, — Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, she’s, Domenico Dolce, Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Suzanne Koller “, Francesco Vezzoli, Olivier Rizzo, Ferdinando Verderi, Theaster Gates, Uma Thurman, Frank Ocean, —, Carla Sozzani, Corso, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent, jolie laide, It’s, “ She’s, Lotta Volkova, Miu Miu’s, Guido Palau, they’d, ‘, Tom Ford, prim, ” Prada, Prada PRADA, Luisa Prada —, Sozzani —, Miuccia’s, Luigi Bianchi, she’d, Godard, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Bertelli, we’re, Lorenzo Bertelli, Giulio Bertelli, they’re, ” Francesco Risso, ” Risso, Fabio Zambernardi, “ Bottega, Gaetano Pesce, Saint Laurent, Pedro Almodóvar, Rem Koolhaas, ” James Jean, Frédéric Sanchez, Sanchez, cardigans, Marc Jacobs, Robert Gober, Louise Bourgeois, there’s, Gober, Suzanne Koller Prada pongee, — Prada, Milano, Damien Hirst, ” Koolhaas, Koolhaas, “ I’d, Wes Anderson — who’s, Bar Luce, Fondazione Prada —, ” “, Hirst, Prada sighed, ’ ” Prada, Miuccia Prada hasn’t, Raf Simons, Prada’s, Simons, ” Simons, Dior, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, ” he’d, Miuccia, ’ ”, Andrea Guerra, Lorenzo, who’d, ” Miu, Antoneta Alamat, ” Miuccia Prada, Elio Berenett, Saunders, Awar Odhiang, Jonas Glöer, Chloe Nguyen, Estrella Gomez, America Gonzalez, Marie Duhart, Rafael Medeiros, Stefano Poli, Ariel Sadok, Cameron Koskas, Vassili, Alexandra Adams, Vincent Brière, Vira, Natsuki Oneyama, Joel Phillips, Manicurist’s, Akane Kanazawa, Marek Dague, QUEEN LATIFAH, DANA OWENS, She’d, Melle Mel, Big Daddy Kane, D.J.s, Owens, Nikki Giovanni, Octavia E, Butler, M.C.s, Latifah, Jazzy Joyce, MC Lyte, Lyte, ” Latifah, We’re, She’s, Shakim Compere, Norma Kamali, David Yurman, David Webb, Ian Bradley Louis Vuitton, Monie, Gary Gray’s, Tracy Oliver, Kenya Barris, Megan Thee, Viola Davis, it’s, LATIFAH, Michael Jackson, who’ve, Shakim, Rita Owens, Compere, Rita, scions, Amina, Amiri Baraka, Lauryn Hill, Latifah wasn’t, Lyte’s, Roxanne, Roxanne Shanté, Dana Owens, Danyel Smith, Queen Latifah —, Latifah ”, Tommy Boy, Jada Pinkett Smith, I’d, ’, ” Pinkett Smith, Al Pereira, Michael Ochs, Raymond Boyd, Getty, D’s, Gray, Latifah’s, Luther Vandross’s, Lancelot Owens Jr, Winki, Kierna Mayo, Love, merrily hyperhappy, Harriet Tubman, Angela Davis, Winnie Mandela, Tipper Gore, Al Gore, ” Love, Giorgio Armani, Van Cleef, Will Smith’s, Bel, Amanda Wicks, John Singleton’s “, Cleo, Clover Hope, “ Will, Smith, Wright ”, “ Bessie, Bessie Smith, Dee Rees, Ma Rainey, Jack Gee, Michael K, Williams, Compere’s, helpfully, Sylvia Robinson, Debra Martin Chase, Wright ” —, Lancelot Owens Sr, Pinkett Smith, Edward Woodward, Denzel Washington, Latifah’s Robyn McCall, Danyel, Vi, Lorraine Toussaint, Robyn, Paul Drinkwater, Cress Williams, Adam Lazarre, Everett, Kimberly Elise, Vivica, Nicola Goode, LL, “ Bessie ”, Frank Masi, David Lee, Jocelyn Prescod, scleroderma, David Jolicoeur, Love —, Eboni Nichols, she’ll, gazes, Bruce Springsteen, Sarah Vaughan, Frank Sinatra, “ I’m, They’ve, Cartier, Iasia Estée, Raisa Flowers, Adrien Potier, Fallou, Nuvany David, Manicurist, Lisa Logan, Derrick Bernard, Casey Jones, Stylist’s, Charles Ndiomu, Tyler Sparling, ANNETTE BENING, Diana Nyad, “ Nyad, Bening’s, Jimmy Chin, Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi, Alex Honnold’s, ” Chin, Nyad, Bening, Rada Owen, Owen “, Ralph Lauren, Carrie Fisher’s, Julia ”, Robert Caro, ” Bening, that’s, Delphine Danhier Gabriela Hearst poncho, Dianne Feinstein, Austin Butler, Elvis, manqué, Mike Mills, Nyad ”, Diana, he’s, Cillian Murphy, “ Oppenheimer, Kurt Collins, BENING, Tina, Tony, Pierre Choderlos, didn’t, Marquise de Merteuil, Milos Forman’s “, Glenn Close, Valmont, Lisa Cholodenko, Meryl Streep, Alexander McQueen, Forman, Stephen Frears, Myra Langtry, Langtry, Bugsy ”, Warren Beatty, moll Virginia Hill, Reagan, “ I’ve, Fairuza, “ Valmont ”, “ Bugsy ”, “ Bugsy, ” Everett, Jeremy Irons, Julianne Moore, Suzanne Tenner, Billy Crudup, Merrick Morton, “ Nyad ”, ” Liz Parkinson, Liz Parkinson, Angela Bassett, Frances McDormand, Tilda Swinton, Rather, you’re, Pete Zuccarini, Jodie Foster, Nyad’s, Tracy Letts, ” Letts, — “, Beatty, ” Mills, Ella Beatty, ” Vasarhelyi, Dale Carnegie’s, Sophie Buhai, Vasarhelyi, I’ve, slathering, Michael Douglas, Robert De Niro, Harrison Ford, Julia, callow, Shaun Evans, Corey Stoll, Howard Hughes —, Jesse Hoffman, Cam Lindfors, Christian Scutt, Ronna Jones, Francesca Martin, Susie Kourinian, Rachel Pollen, Jazmine Robinson, HENRY TAYLOR, Taylor, Thom Browne cardigan, Philando, Diamond Reynolds, Henry Taylor’s “, Mark Dever, Dever, ” Dever, Castile, he’ll, Steve Cannon, Cannon, ” Taylor, Joshua White, panhandlers —, Cora, isn’t, He’s, Michelle Obama, Bob Dylan, Alice Coachman, Chuck Berry, Jay, Stanley Williams, Haile Selassie I, Taylor’s “ Cora, Jeff McLane Taylor, — Pablo Picasso, Philip Guston, Henri Matisse, Robert Rauschenberg —, Donald Trump’s, he’d, Picasso, Jordan Casteel, Kerry James Marshall, Jennifer Packer, Amy Sherald, Barack Obama, Michelle, Pharrell Williams, Kendrick Lamar’s, He’d, Emmett Till, Till, Till’s, Dana Schutz, Hannah Black, Schutz, William Styron, Nat Turner, George Jackson, Randy, Jackson, “ George Jackson ”, Dylan, Medgar Evers, Evers, Ku Klux Klan who’d, Taylor’s “ Cicely, Miles, Sam Kahn, Hershal, Taylor didn’t, Taylor’s, who’s, Bill Traylor, James Jarvaise, Jarvaise, Rauschenberg, Jasper Johns, Louise Nevelson, Frank Stella, Mark Bradford —, Hauser, Wirth —, Michel Foucault, Jacques Derrida Organizations: Fondazione Prada, New, Galleria Vittorio, Prada, Prada Group, Olympic, Harvard, Gucci, University of Milan, Union of Italian, Communist Party, ABC, Suzanne Koller Journalists, Yorker, Milano Prada Arte, Fondazione, tote, New York, Guggenheim, OMA, Next Management, Oui Management, Ford Models, Lumien, Management Paris, IMG Models, America, Bryant Artists, Burger, Swatch, Irvington High School, Black Arts, Hit Factory, Ramada, Hollywood, Flavor Unit Entertainment, CBS, WHO, Factory, Irvington, Tommy Boy Records, Unit, Michael Ochs Archives, Getty, AMC, Play Studios, Music Resource Center, “ Chicago ”, HBO, Jazz, Mo’Nique, Sugar Hill Records, Winki, ”, NBCU, Warner Brothers, Fox, Miramax, Paramount, Fox Searchlight Pictures, Everett, Bank, BET, Hawks, Mori, Digital, Key West, Liverpool ”, SAG, Telluride Film, Variety, Broadway, Miami, Writers Guild of America, Orion Pictures, DreamWorks, Sony Pictures, Netflix, Kimberley, Juilliard, Forward Artists, Minn, Facebook, Hauser & Wirth, Museum of Contemporary Art, Whitney Museum of American Art, MoMA, Los, Whitney Biennial, Biennial, Black America, New York Times, Louis Vuitton, Black Panthers, U.S ., San, Prison, Ku Klux Klan, Ardmore, New York’s Museum of Modern, California Institute of Arts, Wirth Locations: Milan, Canadian, Switzerland, New York, ”, Marfa , Texas, Italian, Belgian, Corso Como, Paris, British, chino, Firstview, Milanese, Alberto, Europe, Italy, —, “, Taiwanese American, there’s, Manhattan, Koolhaas, Rotterdam, Netherlands, New, Antwerp, Croatian, America, Newark , N.J, Midtown Manhattan, Hudson, Brooklyn, Hit Factory , New York City, NoHo, New York City, Lafayette 148 New York, New Jersey, Newark, Jersey, Baltimore, Chicago, Milwaukee, Queens, Hollywood, “ Chicago, Watts, Havana, Key, Fla, Bening, Dominican Republic, Capitan, Yosemite, San Diego, Los Angeles, Simi Valley, Calif, Givenchy, Liverpool, Nyad, Cuba, Florida, San Francisco, Denver, Tina Howe’s, Champagne, yips, Kimberley, “ Nyad, American, Topeka, Kan, Wichita, San Fernando Valley, San Carlos, Koreatown, Philando Castile, St, Paul, Oxnard, California, Mississippi, U.S, San Quentin, Castile, bro, Naples, East Texas, Ardmore, Alabama

☆ Julianne Moore’s Montauk Sanctuary
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-21 | by ( Nick Haramis | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +34 min

— HANYA YANAGIHARASpeak Softly In a wild meadow by the sea, Julianne Moore and Bart Freundlich’s Montauk house uses just a few materials to say many things. In Moore’s office, a Pierre Jeanneret desk and chair, an Alvar Aalto stool and a Willy Van Der Meeren cabinet. In the oak-paneled living room of Justinian Kfoury’s apartment in a townhouse on Washington Square Park, an Audubon-style print and a Hans Wegner Papa Bear chair. A view of the double-height living room from the curved balcony on the third floor. A sculpture by Huma Bhabha and a configuration of five Isamu Noguchi L7 pendants in the landing that separates the primary suite from the living room.

Persons: it’s, Mishan, there’s, —, Julianne Moore, Bart Freundlich’s Montauk, Bart Freundlich’s, Moore, Tom Volk, Oliver Freundlich, Anne’s, Pierre Jeanneret, Alvar Aalto, Willy Van Der, Ori Gersht, she’s, ” It’s, ”, “, Bart Freundlich, Tomas Maier, Bottega, Andrew Geller, Norman Jaffe, Freundlich, ” Moore, Moore’s, Liv, Caleb, Robert Gurr, Isamu Noguchi, Pierre, Noguchi, Alma Allen, Joseph Dirand, Oliver, “ I’m, ” Oliver, grins, MOORE, Anne Love Smith, Massimiliano Locatelli, Daniel Romualdez, Vincent Van Duysen, Charlotte Perriand, Pierre Chapo, Willy Van Der Meeren, Friedrich Kunath, Mark Wilson, Donald Judd, Wilson, Mario Bellini, Karl Springer, Rogan Gregory, Nancy Pearce, Oscar, Alice ”, Alexander Calder, Andrea Zittel, JB Blunk, AFTRA, Hope, It’s, ‘ You’re, ’ ”, Justinian, Hans Wegner Papa Bear, Paavo, Marc Hundley, that’s, Adriana Lara, Nicholas Krushenick, Justinian Kfoury, downtowners, He’d, Trish Goff, Kfoury, Leonid Berman, Jelto ”, Tomma Abts, Paul Cadmus, Edith Wharton, Henry James, Paul van der, ” Kfoury, Joe Roberts, Mary Cameron Goodyear, Kfoury’s, He’s, Wolfgang Tillmans, they’d, Lorna Simpson, Misha Kahn, Michael Anastassiades, Glenn Ligon’s, Frank Bowling, Piet Hein Eek, Miriam Cahn, Paul Pfeiffer’s, Leah Panlilio, Tal Schori, Rustam Mehta, Adam Pogue, Constantino Buccolieri, Michael Kirkland, Cy Twombly’s, Ho, Huma Bhabha, Nairy Baghramian, Coco Fusco, Robert Vinas Jr, Duro Olowu, Mark Ellison, Adam Marelli, Bob Chan, Isamu Noguchi Akari, Danh Vo, Nairy, ‘, Laura Mac Donald, Theaster Gates, Frank Lloyd, Kirkland, Ettore, Parsons, Jasper Johns, Merce Cunningham Organizations: Manhattan’s, Yorkers, that’s, Hamptons, WHO, Writers Guild of America, SAG, “, Audubon, Washington, East Village, brac, AS, Fifth, Fort Standard, GRT Architects, Architects, Walt Disney Concert Hall, Soane Britain Locations: New York, Paris, London, Rome , New York, It’s, Washington, Manhattan, Harlem, Montauk, American, Chinatown, York, N.Y, Summerhill, Long, Fort Pond, New York City, Pond, North Carolina, Morentz, Scottish, Japanese American, Belgian, East Hampton, Japan, “, California, Swiss, New York’s Washington, Kennebunkport, England, East, Boston, Lebanon, Maine, Vermont, Venice, Moroccan, North, Kfoury’s, New York’s Harlem, Westchester County, Brooklyn, Italian, Finnish, Rome, Los Angeles, Korean, Berlin, Iranian, Chicago

☆ Men’s Tights Aren’t Just for Elizabethan Aristocrats Anymore
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-06 | by ( Nick Haramis | More About Nick Haramis | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

AFTER SATIRIZING EVERYTHING from the western to the Stone Age, Mel Brooks in 1993 released the movie “Robin Hood: Men in Tights,” a sendup of “Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves,” which had come out two years earlier. Although Brooks’s parody was uniformly idiotic — Maid Marian wears an Everlast chastity belt; Blinkin, a blind servant, gropes a Braille edition of Playboy — many of the laughs were at the expense of so-called feygeles, a Yiddish slur for gay men. During a musical number with a cancan interlude, the heroic outlaw assures the audience he’s not one. “We may look like pansies,” he and his Merry Men sing, “but don’t get us wrong or else we’ll put out your lights. To protect the social order, sumptuary laws were passed that discouraged commoners from dressing above their class.

Persons: Mel Brooks, Robin Hood, “ Robin Hood :, Marian, ”, we’ll, William Shakespeare, Richard Thompson Ford Organizations: Playboy

VACCARELLO’S DEBUT FOR Saint Laurent wasn’t as rapturously received as Yves Saint Laurent’s for Dior. “Anthony has been scrutinized and told his dresses were too vulgar or too sexy,” he says. At the beginning of his tenure at Saint Laurent, it sometimes seemed like Vaccarello was art directing someone else’s movie. Illuminated by the soft glow of chandeliers — a reference to the ballroom at Paris’s InterContinental hotel, the frequent site of Saint Laurent’s presentations — the women summoned the femmes fatales of Helmut Newton photographs. “Now that I’m a free man, I feel inclined to say that I think that what Anthony has done with Saint Laurent has been positively brilliant.

Persons: Saint Laurent wasn’t, rapturously, Yves Saint Laurent’s, Saint, Flinn, “ Anthony, Vaccarello, Saint Laurent, Luchino Visconti, Rainer Werner Fassbinder, can’t, he’s, Helmut Newton, Henri Pinault, ”, Tom Ford, Anthony Organizations: Saint Laurent, Dior, Montaigne, —, Eiffel, InterContinental Locations: Saint, Malibu , Calif

☆ Lana Del Rey Wanted to Sing With Joan Baez. But First, She’d Have to Find Her.
▼ + stars: | 2023-04-20 | by ( Nick Haramis | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

If people want to learn from me, I tell them to look beyond the music to my engagement with human and civil rights. A documentary has just been made about me [“Joan Baez I Am a Noise,” 2023]. At another point in the film, I mention in a letter to my parents that I want to save the world. Lana doesn’t make such grand political statements — at Berkeley, she brought me out to do it for her. And yet, amid the colorful chaos and glitter of her show, she was at one point, I believe, barefoot.

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